Everything in this hub is bought after the table, which is why so much of it is bought wrong. The gear has to fit around a thing that is already in the room, and the measurements that matter are the ones left over.
Cues: 58 inches is a specification, not a default
A standard pool cue is 58 inches long. Add about 6 inches of stroke behind it and that is the clearance a shot needs from the cushion to whatever is behind you. Short cues are sold at 48 and 52 inches, and they buy back 10 and 6 inches respectively on every shot taken from that side.
In a tight room, two short cues racked alongside the full-length ones is not a compromise - it is the standard solution, and it is what good tables in small rooms actually have on the wall. The clearance arithmetic is worked through here.
Beyond length, the useful specs are weight and shaft material. Weight runs 18 to 21 ounces and is pure preference; 19 is the usual starting point. Maple shafts feel traditional and are what most players learn on. Fiberglass and composite shafts shrug off humidity, which is the practical answer for a garage or an unconditioned basement where a wooden cue will warp.
Lighting: height, color temperature and shadow
A pool table light hangs 30 to 36 inches above the playing surface. Higher and the light spreads and flattens; lower and it is in the eyeline of anyone shooting down the table. The World Pool-Billiard Association specifies 520 lux - about 48 foot-candles - of uniform light at every point on the playing surface for tournament play, which is a useful target even at home because the word that matters is uniform.
Uniform is why a three-shade fixture exists. One pendant over the center of an 8-foot table leaves both ends dim and puts a bright spot in the middle. Three shades on a bar, or a single linear LED, cover the length evenly.
Color temperature should sit between 3000 K and 4000 K. Warmer than 3000 K and the balls lose color separation - the reds and the browns converge, which matters on a table full of solids and stripes. Cooler than 4000 K and the room reads clinical. And keep colored LED strip lighting on the walls, never on the table.
Furniture: everything in this room has to move
The rule for game room furniture is that it must either be outside the cue swing or be able to move in two seconds. Backless stools tuck fully under a rail or counter; stools with backs do not. Modular sofas can be pulled apart to clear a break shot; a large fixed sectional in a basement cannot.
Flooring is the part people regret skipping. A bare concrete slab telegraphs every dropped ball through the whole house, chips a dropped cue tip, and is cold enough that nobody stays in the room. Interlocking rubber tiles handle a garage; carpet tiles handle a basement and let you replace one 18-inch square after a chalk spill instead of a whole floor.